is there a sensible way to track website traffic?

GA4 plus Search Console, both free. GA4 for what people do on the site, Search Console for how they found you on Google. The bit people skip is setting up key events in GA4 (form sent, call clicked, purchase). Without those you only know how many came, not whether any of it was worth anything. If GA4 drives you mad there are simpler paid analytics tools, but connect Search Console either way.